WILL STANHOPE

The consummate allround climber from Squamish

Will is the consummate, well-rounded climber. He is equally at home on the ice, mountains, big walls, hard crack climbs, and anything else in between. His free climb of the Tom Egan Memorial Buttress (5.14a) in the Bugaboo Mountains exemplifies his broad skill set.

Birthday: November 16, 1986
Home town: North Vancouver BC
Current home: Squamish BC
Favorite MAXIM rope: Just one?? The Airliner and the Personal Escape Rope

“I just got back from Patagonia and we used the 9.1 Airliner on all our trips into the mountains. The rock down there is some of the most abrasive granite I’ve ever come across. It really is a confidence boost knowing that your rope will take the abuse down there, especially when you have an untold amount of engaging rappels ahead of you. The fact that it handles like a dream as well makes it the best cord I’ve ever used.”

Will Stanhope

Get to know Will ...

Tell us how and when you got into climbing?
My Dad and his best buddy Brad read about it as a way for guys over forty to stay fit. They took me to the local gym and I was instantly hooked

What do you think was the highlight of your climbing career (so far)? :
Sinking my hand into the final hand jam at the end of the A1 Beauty pitch on the Prophet and clipping the anchor at dusk. The sun was just setting and El Cap was glowing orange. I’ve never been so close to falling. When I got back to the portaledge I’ve never felt higher.

What is the soundtrack of your life (favorite song)?
Light my Fire by the Doors

If you could choose a super power, what would it be?
The ability to predict the weather to a tee.

What was your favorite climbing adventure?
My longtime buddy Mike Doyle went ground-up on this awesome Alex Huber El Cap route called El Corazon last spring. Mike had never climbed wall style, but he’s a fast learner and such a stellar partner. We were up there for 6 days and had a ball. It’s one of the beautiful parts of El Cap. I love that style of climbing: ground-up, no rehearsal, just figuring it out as you go.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a pro climber?
I have no idea. I’d like to think I’d have found something else as engrossing, but there’s no telling.

Climbing picture of MAXIM athlete Will Stanhope

Career Highlights

The Tom Egan Memorial Route

Country/City: Bugaboos, British Columbia
Grade: 5.14
Length: 13 pitches

Matt Segal and I worked on this route for four consecutive summers. I’ve never invested as much time and effort into a single project and I pulled it off by the skin of my teeth.

Triple Howser Free Link-Up

Country/City: Bugaboos, British Columbia
Grade: up to 5.12+
Length: 2000 metres of climbing

Leo Houlding and I free climbed the three west faces of the Howser towers in a 23.5 hour push last summer. I’ve had this project in the back of my mind for 8 years and it was a joy to complete it with Leo, one of my original climbing heroes.

The Cobra Crack

Country/City: Squamish BC
Grade: 5.14-
Lenght: 1 pitch

This pitch on the backside of the Chief is just simply one of the most perfect lines I’ve ever climbed: a wave of granite with a single finger crack splitting it.

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